During this period in history, your place in society was identified by the quality of your clothes and the number of garments you owned. Sumptuary laws attempted to enforce what you were allowed to wear based on your rank in society – including the type of fabric and the amount of material that could be used in garments. As a general rule, you would probably try to wear the best that you could afford.

The fabrics available during the 1500’s were made from natural animal and vegetables fibers – such as wool, linen, and silk.  All of the fabrics were processed by hand by highly skilled professionals. The quality of some of these fabrics is superior to some of the materials available today!

There was a wide range of types of fabrics and quality available during this time period.

• Velvet – a very expensive fabric made from silk. It was used for gowns, kirtles, coats, doublets, jerkins, hats, and hose for the very wealthy. Typically, only people with an annual income of over £200 (circa 1525) could afford it.  As a comparison, it would take a common laborer about 30 years to earn £200.
• Satin – a rich, glossy fabric made from silk that was lighter weight than velvet. It was used in gowns, kirtles, coats, and doublets. Often it was used as a lining for velvet garments.
• Cambric – a very high quality linen that was very white. Used to make the finest shirts, smocks, kerchiefs, and aprons.
• Lawn – very expensive, almost transparent linen made from gossamer-fine thread. Used to make partlets, ruffs, collars, aprons, and kerchiefs.
• Scarlet – highest quality wool. It was usually dyed red and used to make petticoats, waistcoats, gowns, cloaks, and linings.
• Chamlet – lightweight material made from silk and linen. It was the most affordable silk on the market and was used to make doublets, coats, and kirtles.
• Damask – a smooth weave often with a satin background. It was used for summer gowns, kirtles, coats, jerkins, and partlets.